Seven Cities in Seventeen Days: Glimpses of things Brazilian

I write this at the end of my trip but before the warmth of the Brazilian sunshine is washed away by the gentle fog of the Pacific and the details of everyday life. As I observed cyber silence during the travels, I offer here random observations and thoughts rather than real time narrative.

People:

For me it has to be the kindness, the openness and the patience of the Brazilian people that will stay with me the most. It started with a gay couple sitting next to me on my flight to Sao Paulo. The delved through my itinerary, gave me suggestions and offered to take me to lunch the next day. By the way, gay marriage is legal in Brazil – the largest Catholic country. Eat that America!

Diversity:

Brazilians come in all colors, shapes and sizes. Our tour guides made it a point to emphasize the “melting pot” created by a mix of immigrant groups (Portuguese, Italians, Japanese, Lebanese, and West Africans) and co-existence of different faiths (Christianity and Islam). But it was difficult to assess whether the divisions along ethnic groups are indeed blurred and whether different faiths are celebrated. Japanese communities apparently continue to send their offspring to Japan for “cultural education” and there seemed to be no signs of Id (the end of Ramadan) celebrations in Sao Paulo or its acknowledgement by our guide. But understanding of such things requires a lot more immersion in the culture than seventeen days can possibly offer.

Food:

Beef and beer rule! Pizza may as well be the national food. Nobody in our group expected to be eating so much pizza. Thanks to the Italian immigrants fine thin crust pizza can be found everywhere and provides a safe option for tourist types weary of their ability of decipher menus in Portuguese and mistakenly getting chunks of meat in various forms.  A cheese and tomato sandwich by definition will include a slice of meat. A tough place for vegetarians but then there are very few places in the world that are culinary havens for the abstainers of flesh.

Feijoada, perhaps the real national dish, a heavy meat stew, typically prepared on Saturdays was delicious at the Casa of Feijoada in Rio. A randomly ordered black bean soup cooked in bacon encrusted with red chilies at Devassa pub was simply delightful.  Brazilians know their coffee – not one bad cuppa was had in seventeen days.  They also know how to keep their beer cold – bottles always showed up in a bucket of ice or as in Ouro Preto in beer bongs (photos to follow).

There was some talk about the “Brazilian paradox” regarding eating and drinking habits within the group. But I will let others elaborate and explain.

The Cities:

The most striking and unexpected feature is the preponderance of high rise buildings in all the Brazilian cities, colonial Paraty and Ouro Preto being the exceptions.  Others have commented on this “verticality” aspect and so I will not elaborate further. I was also impressed by the lack of relative urban poverty everywhere we went. Even at a visit to a favela in Rio people seemed content and nobody was trying to peddle goods to us. Perhaps Brazil is indeed ready to host the next World Cup Football and the Olympics.

Sao Paulo – This city for me was all about the other church of Brazil – futbol! I went to the Museum of Futbol and saw Brazilians enjoying and devouring various features of this very new, contemporary and interactive museum. The visit was followed by going to a local football game. We splurged for good seats and it was worth every dime. To see a live game at close quarters played by professionals is simply nothing short of a 90-minute adrenalin boost.

Paraty – A sleepy colonial town where we spent a lazy day on a schooner relaxing amidst beautiful scenery. Time was spent jumping into the warm waters to swim to small islands, chatting with fellow companions and simply being at peace.

Rio de Janiero – The night life here has got to be among the top three.  Next time in Rio I am packing my party dress and shoes! And I will come prepared with some moves...

Also, jay walkers beware! A few of us saw a pedestrian getting hit by a vehicle. That put an end to any temptations to take a short cut.

Brasilia – I have only two words: Oscar Neimeyer! Oscar, you have created and flourished and now give others a chance.

Ouro Preto – A beautiful colonial town where steep cobbled streets make for arduous walking particularly after a few shots of cachaca (sugar cane liquor).

Curitiba – Visiting this town for planners would be like visiting the Vatican for a devout Catholic. And it did not disappoint. Yes, you can tell a “livable” city when you see one. All the usual elements come together and combine that with the warmth of the people and the energy of their music. A couple of us hooked up with a group of locals who had gathered at a watering hole (an Irish pub) after work. They took us to their club where “Brazilian country” music was being played by an up and coming group – kind of in the Bossa Nova tradition. Hanging with an office crowd after work gave us some insights. It was interesting to observe a woman manager negotiate recreation time with her male employees. Some things in this world will remain the same.

Iguacu Falls – There are waterfalls and then there is Iguacu Falls. The vastness of these falls has to be seen to be believed. Photos cannot do justice. We were told that there have been rare droughts when the falls dried up. Nothing would freak me out more to see the faucet turned off over these beauties.

There is so much more than what has been shared above.

But if all could be written then why would one travel at all.

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